Special Techniques Blog Post

Double face Coats

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How often do you hear of clothing items that are made by hand these days? What about handmade in Europe, a country with a history of manufacturing and tailoring that spans generations? Every season, we work with Italian high Brand to create their double face.

A double face garment is not necessarily reversible but this technique was born just to create double identity garments, usually combining patterned and plain fabrics; these fabrics have two right sides or faces and no wrong side.

History

In the thirties the double face construction was used for men and women coats only, usually in quite heavy wool fabrics.

In the fifties, with Dior, its glory explodes, majorly in the coats with the famous corolla shape, so much as the belts In the ‘60s is Mila Schon who combined the double face construction with “A” line dresses and tunics to be worn on straight trousers. In the ‘70s the long nightgown coats, soft and unconstructed make the double face history.

Nowadays the double face evolution goes towards the combination of different materials, not only two-colors but two-ways. Wool and nylon, cotton and silk for coats, rainwear but also skirts and dresses

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How is it do

Everything starts from the fabric: we can work with your fabric or can source from Italy, China and Turkey. The roll is already double and after cuted by automatic machine, the two layers are opened with a micrometrical accuracy.The cut is extremely precise. The blade can be easily adjusted so that it can open fabrics of any thickness. Adjustments both of the lower level and of the upper presser foot are micrometric and independent of one another. Values of adjustments can be viewed through gauges that ensure pinpoint accuracy

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The edges obtained are then folded on themselves and handstiched Every garment is unique: expert hands realize the stitch in a completely invisible way There are 35/40 stitches every 10 cm that give the sartorial aspect only a double face garment handstitched could have.

At the end of this process everything must be moved in the laboratories in order to be packed and modelled as for the tailor field we are able to satisfy minimum quantities and range of samples.

Ironing and testing are the end of the processing after which the items will be finally sent to the customers headquarters throw International transport servicies.

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